Squid Soup, Chestnuts, Mandarine, Chrysanths
Coconut’s Critic’s Table reviews are written based on unannounced visits by our writers and paid for by Coconuts Hong Kong.
COCONUTS CRITIC’S TABLE – One of the more unusual new openings in Hong Kong this summer is the low-key but cocksure French bistro, Serge et Le Phoque (translated as Serge and the Seal).
Located on the edge of the Wan Chai wet market, close to the outdoor hawker stalls and fruit stands, the unassuming restaurant has no signage, not even a menu anywhere on its floor-to-ceiling window front. A lot of curious pedestrians pass by, admire the minimalist setting, but the lack of communication is intimidating enough to ward them off.
That’s too bad because inside is a kitchen with a very high pedigree. Its French owners and chef were partners and associates in highly regarded Parisian hotspots like La Bigarrade, Le Chateaubriand and Café Burq. The cuisine aims for a level of sophistication not normally seen next to street-side butcher stalls. If Serge et Le Phoque was in a trendier part of town, it would already be a hipster sensation. The decor is relaxed, the furniture feels even cheaper but the food has the high ambitions of a five-star hotel brasserie.
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A complimentary small bowl of edamame was presented as we sat down. An interesting snack for a French eatery. The Japanese theme would continue.
A one page menu offers a four-course set with a selection of starters, mains and desserts. The opposite page is a Cote de Boeuf option but we’re immediately told the rib of beef was completely sold out the night before. New supplies from France won’t be arriving for a couple more days.
No worries. The seafood heavy options offer plenty of interesting sounding choices. There’s ‘Razor Clams, Radish and Shishito Nuts’, ‘Cuttlefish, Cauliflower, Umegoshi Poutargue and Dill’ and ‘Hen Egg, Corn, Squid Ink, and Tempura from the Market’. What did I tell you about the Japanese influence.
Before our dishes arrive, we’re offered an amuse bouche of a tiny cube of tuna belly with a little chive and a citrusy jus. I like it but, again, not especially French.
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Octopus, Aji Amarillo, Century Egg And Tobico
My starter of ‘Octopus, Aji Amarillo, Century Egg And Tobico’ is one large grilled tentacle with a slice of the Southern Chinese preserved thousand year egg. The tobico caviar didn’t add much taste or interesting texture while the Aji Amarillo sauce is too slight. The dish shoots for Kyoto subtlety where a generous Sichuan punch would be more effective. More affecting is my companion’s ‘Squid Soup, Chestnuts, Mandarine, Chrysanths’. Large pieces of lightly battered and fried cephalopod sit on a small pool of what appears to be slightly sweet mirin, dashi and stock. Yes, to call it a soup is a bit misleading. Nevermind, this delicate re-fashioning and accessorising of tempura is still very enjoyable.
The chef clearly likes to bring nouveau French techniques to the Asian flavours and ingredients more accessible at hand. One Gallic gastro tradition we wish he would abandon is serving such stereotypically dainty portions. Would it kill their bottom line to add another tentacle or pile the squid a little higher?
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Fried frog’s legs with cumin
A second amuse bouche follow shortly. Flash fried frog legs spiced with cumin. Considering its strong taste and protein component, they could dress it up, add this to the menu and call it a five course meal.
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Red Snapper, Kaboucha, Clams, Sesame, Passion Fruit
In terms of the mains, the ‘Red Snapper, Kaboucha, Clams, Sesame, Passion Fruit’ is a case of supporting players muting the main attraction. The clean lightness of the firm red snapper work fine enough on its own or with a mellow kaboucha squash paste but it doesn’t sit well next to uneven clams cooked with passion fruit and sesame seeds. Actually, I am not sure the clams’ brininess work with passion fruit. It’s a nice effort but a failed experiment I think.
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Hugo’s Beef, Smoked Garlic, Enoki, Sea Snails and Nori
A better result is ‘Hugo’s Beef, Smoked Garlic, Enoki, Sea Snails and Nori’ (Hugo is the name of their beef supplier). The slices of beef loin are tender and its flavours enhanced by the mushrooms, garlic and sea snails. The nori seaweed show up in small textural notes and in a thick savoury black sauce, that is another culinary nod to Japan. It’s a balanced surf and turf dish but one you would likely not find in any part of France.
The most French thing on the menu actually came after the main course. A cheese course serves up two strong but not undaunting cheeses whose names escaped us because the server explained them a bit hastily. The hard cheese was produced from goat’s milk, a little more refined than peccorino. The brie was extra soft and full of umami.
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Dacquoise with Vanilla Cream and Nougatine
For dessert recommendations, I asked the server about the ‘Baba au Rhum with Mango’. He asked if we were driving. I replied no and he said, “go for it.” The gateau comes with a lemony custard top and the rum literally over flows in the bowl. It’s very well produced and you certainly can’t complain they were cheap with the alcohol. An even better recommendation is the ‘Dacquoise with Vanilla Cream and Nougatine’. These delightful confections are larger sized macaroons filled with the cream and nougatine. It’s not overly sweet, the vanilla is infused throughout and I would conclude it’s a rather divine way to end the meal.
Serge et Le Phoque might be too eclectic for its own good but there is definitely attitude in its modern French cuisine. Now they just need to figure out exactly what these rebels of gastronomy want to say – and then articulate it just a little better. The four course set is HK$550 with no service charge.
FIND IT
Serge et Le Phoque
B2, G/F,
Tower 1, The Zenith,
3 Wanchai Rd, Wan Chai
Tel: +852 5465 2000
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