Finger Licking Chicken Wings
The trend, away from stuffy multi-course meals and formal fine dining, continues as Harlan Goldstein is the latest to join the casual parade, turning his New York steak joint Strip House into an informal diner simply called Comfort.
It’s an unlikely change of pace for a chef who likes to brag about tycoon clientele and banker patrons dropping big chunks of change for some Porterhouse and Lafite. Comfort is unassuming, inexpensive (relatively speaking) and very easy going. A neon sign on the rustic exposed wall saying ‘food for friends’ sums up the laid-back vibe.
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The menu though is surprisingly eclectic. It’s a mix of popular classics from across the world, plus pan-Asian favourites distilled through the Michelin star celebrity chef’s rarefied treatment. “I’m having fun here,” Goldstein admits. “There’s a lot of Asian dishes I’ve always wanted to do but they don’t quite fit (in my other restaurants). But I can do them now.”
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Pork Belly Bao Bao
That starts with Goldstein’s winning “Melt in Your Mouth” Pork Belly Bao Bao (HK$98), a generous slice of glazed belly meat in a Chinese steam bun with a hoi sin glaze. It’s sweet, savoury, familiar yet different – and you immediately want another after eating. The Finger Licking Chicken Wings (HK$88) is less interesting. It’s essentially a version of Swiss Chicken Wing, with a sweet soy marinate that overpowers the ginger, chilli and spring onion that were supposed to add an extra zing.
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Lemon Herbed Halloumi cheese on Indian Spiced Spinach
Goldstein’s comfort dishes extends to Middle-Eastern dishes too. There’s a terrific Crispy Falafel with Garlic Sesame Sauce (HK$88) and a Lemon Herbed Halloumi cheese on Indian Spiced Spinach (HK$98) with the requisite saltiness and squeakiness.
His mains are equally unpretentious. Two of his most popular dishes are credited to his Chinese wife’s side of the family. Grilled King Prawns with Singapore Black Pepper Sauce (HK$298) is from an ‘Uncle Raymond’ in the Lion City. In Goldstein’s hands, the heat level is toned down for more peppery nuance. As a much more health conscious chef now – Goldstein lost over 20kg last year – this and all other dishes are also less greasy than their precedents.
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“My Tai Tai’s” Beef Brisket Curry
Another signature is the “My Tai Tai’s” Beef Brisket Curry, Rice & Pickled Vegetables (HK$158). The curry is a thick Hong Kong-style sauce with much more lemongrass fragrance and noticeably without floating pools of oil and fat.
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Slow-Cooked Duroc Pork Ribs
The genius of Goldstein’s cooking has always been its simplicity. The native New Yorker is not a fussy, meticulous taste manipulator. What he’s great at is finding excellent ingredients and letting the fresh flavours shine in a proper spotlight. An example is the Slow-Cooked Duroc Pork Ribs (HK$315). Three large succulent pieces of fall off the bone meaty ribs are rubbed with plenty of warm cumin. Goldstein also suggests you slather his balsamic sauce on to balance the hearty protein with a tangy counterpoint. He boasts on the menu it is the “best ribs in L.K.F. (Lan Kwai Fong)” and we’re not going to disagree.
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Harlan’s Nitrogen Dessert Creation of the Day
Ironically, it is at Comfort that Goldstein feels at ease enough to play around with a little molecular razzle-dazzle. There is a Harlan’s Nitrogen Dessert Creation of the Day (HK$98), which on our visit, the flavour was peanut butter and banana. Brittle bits of nitrogen frozen chocolate flavoured cream hides chunks of PB and B in a metal bowl. We have no issue with the taste but the bowl tends to slide around making it hard to dig into the bottom. And on the first few bites your lips may temporarily stick to the very cold spoon.
If you’re a wuss, you can stick to home-style desserts like Waffles with Nutella Ice-Cream and Orange Jam (HK$68) or “Old School” Apple Crumble (HK$68).
FIND IT!
COMFORT by Harlan Goldstein
5/F Grand Progress Building
15-16 Lan Kwai Fong
Central, Hong Kong.
Tel: +852 2521 8638
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