There’s no rule that says a teppan grill can only cook traditional Japanese ingredients. That’s the idea behind the Grand Hyatt hotel’s recent new concept The Teppanroom.
It’s a restaurant within a restaurant, situated in a separate space inside Kaetsu their signature Japanese eatery. The 16 seats surround the long metal grill and intimate lighting gives the space a theatrical feel, making the experience as much visual as culinary.
But what really makes the establishment really interesting is the menu. Besides the expected Japanese grill items that still dominate, there are also entrees that incorporate a broader spectrum of spices and flavours. For example, a la carte options include ‘Foie Gras with Caramelized Fig and Port Wine’ and ‘Spring Chicken with Lemon Yoghurt, Flat Leaf Parsley and Tomato Salad’. You would be hard pressed to find these dishes in an ordinary Tokyo teppanyaki.
On our lunch visit, the standard set (HK$580) begins with an elegantly prepared tray with three sushi; a Prawn Corn Wrap with Avocado and Bell Pepper Dip; a Nagano Tomato, Daikon and Mizuna Salad; plus an Egg Custard with Snow Peas and Dashi Sauce.
Other than the sushi (which are made over at Kaetsu’s sushi counter), everything is prepared in front of the diner. What immediately stands out as an odd teppan item is the prawn wrap. The stuffing is filled in a translucent skin then pan-fried on the grill. Most Japanese will eat seafood fresh on its own rather than mashed into a cake. That’s more a Southeast Asian thing. Offering a mellow, subtle bell pepper mayo dip, rather than a spicy sweet sauce, brings it back to a more appropriately Nippon sensibility.
The refreshing daikon and tomato salad is a nice transition from the prawn cake to the sushi pieces, but the real standout of the appetisers is the egg custard. Teppanroom’s version is far more velvety and the egg is less overcooked. The extra dashi also increases its appeal exponentially.
Sharing main courses, we were able to try two separate main courses. The more intriguing option was Alaskan Cod Fillet, with Kalamata Olives, Chorizo and Artichoke. Obviously Mediterranean inspired, the use of fresh cod instead of salted baccalau means the fish is a bit overshadowed by the chorizo sausage, but it’s still delicious.
The lunch set’s beef choice is a USDA tenderloin. On this day, the hotel’s executives were doing a beef tasting and, as a perk, we got to try a little A5 Wagyu tenderloin to compare the difference with our USDA. Ordinarily, 80g of A5 Wagyu tenderloin at Teppanroom (they offer three different varieties from Hida, Miyazaki and Iwate) costs HK$880.
All the perfectly seared cubes, prepared entertaining by Teppanroom’s talented Beijing-born sous chef Robert Liu (he’s not only a versatile cook, he also speaks Cantonese, Putonghua, Japanese, English and French) were heavenly. The USDA has a nice meaty texture but one taste of the A5 and it’s clear there is more juice and the flavour lingers longer. The question is, is it HK$880 better? To be honest, I think the USDA more than held its own when you take the price into consideration.
A generous bowl of fried rice with fried garlic, asparagus and diced bits of Wagyu beef, plus a soft-centred quail egg on top, topped off the lunch.
Dessert of the day was a show stopping Pineapple Flambé, Tequila, Black Pepper and Coconut Ice Cream. A generous ring of pineapple is caramelized with butter then set afire with the booze. It is topped with a dried pineapple ring and coconut ice cream. This would make a great winter treat as the cooked pineapple comes in a warm liquid with notes like cloves, nutmeg and cinnamon. A choice of Japanese brown tea or coffee round off the decadent meal.
For whatever reason, food guides like the Michelin keep overlooking the outlets inside the Grand Hyatt. While they may not be overly innovative or showboating establishments, I think the hotel is consistently good and solid. Perhaps a more daring and innovative attraction like the Teppanroom will now help them get some attention.
FIND IT!
The Teppanroom
Mezzanine floor
The Grand Hyatt Hong Kong
1 Harbour Road
Wan Chai
Tel. +852 2584 7722
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