The franchise dwindled to just one shop in Causeway Bay until a few months ago when the original owner’s scions launched a rebranded version in Tsim Sha Tsui, at exactly the same Ashley Road address as their original restaurant. However, when we say rebranded, we mean they basically designed a new logo while the menu, decor and food remains the same.
If you enjoy the Colonial era flavours of Hong Kong at Tai Ping Koon or Queen’s Cafe, you’ll probably like Nam Ah 1964. Nostalgia is a daily special here. The stained wood panel interior and 1970s-style booths perfectly evoke the period of cool from a Wong Kar-wai movie. For better or worse, they’ve also brought back exact recipes and dishes from 50 years ago.
In addition to Southeast Asian staples, there’s also a variety of cha-chan-teng (tea restaurant) favourites, from Club Sandwiches to Shrimp Cocktails. On the one hand, there’s a certain quaintness to the old school platters. On the other, we have come a long way in culinary terms since the blind appreciation of authentically executed regional delicacies.
Nam Ah 1964 is probably never going to win any food prize, but perhaps there is a segment of the local demographic that still likes their tomato sauce to be an orange coloured goo and their fruit salads dressed with a Miracle Whip style mayo. Perhaps.
All the dinner sets include a small bun and a standard cream soup or borscht (we chose the borscht). The vegetable stock had a peppery kick and more personality than most versions of this local favourite.
A half dozen skewers of Satay Pork (HKD70) came next, accompanied by a very sweet peanut sauce. There was a healthy portion of meat on each stick and they were seasoned well, but the sickly sweet sauce dulled any flavour there might have been from the protein. It tasted like they’d mixed in an excess amount of sweet chilli sauce. They probably did.
The Fried Kuiteow Noodles (HKD75) were not greasy in the least, which suggests the rice noodles were stir-fried well in strong heat. The dish also wasn’t overwhelmed by curry powder, which is often the case in many diners. But oddly, there was a larger hint of cumin.
A bit of a letdown was the Hainan Chicken Rice (HKD85 for quarter chicken). Despite the fact that I got the leg piece with its more flavourful dark meat, the poultry lacked the requisite moist, velvety texture. The sad specimen was also quite boney without enough meat to satisfy. Fortunately, the rice, cooked with chicken oil thoroughly, was much more enjoyable. And the soup served with the dish (preserved bak choy and almond) felt more nourishing than the bird.
A better effort was the Roasted Half-Spring Chicken (HKD128) which probably was not actually roasted but wok-fried and finished in the oven. The glistening sweet soy marinate was delightful with the crispy skin. The meat might have been a little dry, but for the price you can’t complain too much.
To be honest, the menu’s non-Southeast Asian items are not especially impressive either. The portion of the Stewed Ox-Tongue (HKD85) was very generous, but it could have been cooked longer for more tenderness and with less salt.
A signature item at Nam Ah though is the King Prawn Laksa (HKD128), a large steaming bowl of Singaporean-style coconut flavoured curry soup with noodles, tofu, half of a hard-boiled egg and two large prawns. The broth was thick but not as spicy as you would imagine. The prawns were cooked a bit too long but were obviously from frozen, so it wouldn’t have made too much flavour difference. The soup itself didn’t have the depth reminiscent of a Lion City hawker stall, but on a cold Hong Kong night it was still a real belly-warmer.
Hot Cake
The other unusual signature item is the aesthetically appealing Hot Cake (HKD80), a large single flapjack with a perfectly smooth surface decorated with a slab of butter skating on top. To be honest, it’s less of a pancake and more of a cake. Close to two inches high, the inside was more dense than fluffy, less sweet than expected, and quite a filling snack. Ask for extra butter, then slather the whole thing with it and the classic golden syrup served. It’s the perfect afternoon tea excuse to skip dinner in the evening.
For a more classic dessert, try the Nam Ah Parfait (HKD55). There’s not much to it – just ice cream, canned fruit and cherries, and fruit-flavoured gelatine – but it fits well with the nostalgic vibe of the restaurant.
Nam Ah Parfait
At present, I would say Nam Ah 1964’s fare (and price) is marginally a step above a cha-chan-teng. They charge a very reasonable price for a pleasant place, but serve not particularly special food. It’s a risky combination; on our week night visit in prime dinner hour, there was still only a sparse number of tables occupied.
Nostalgia is one thing, staying relevant is another. An upgrade in produce and ingredient would go a long way to re-establish Nah Ah’s cuisine. They can still make Hong Kong-style Southeast Asian food, but they need to make it more refined for a contemporary clientele that demands better than goopy orange coloured sauces. If not, they may well go the way of the dinosaurs.
Nam Ah 1964, Shop A, G/F Kowloon Centre, 29-39 Ashley Road , Tsim Sha Tsui, (+852) 2466-6702 1017 1005
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