At almost 150 sqkm, Lantau dominates Hong Kong’s cluster of outlying islands. There’s much to experience, from spiritual reprieve to Disneyland whimsy, and the resident cows, serene hikes and laid-back beach vibes will leave you feeling much farther away from the hustle and bustle than you really are.
How to get there
Discover Bay (DB) and Mui Wo can both be reached by ferry from the Central Piers. The DB ferry leaves from Pier 3 at 20 minute intervals, while Mui Wo boat departs from Pier 6, with both hour-long “ordinary” ferries and 40-minute fast ferries taking off regularly. Exact times can be found on the transport department’s website, if you’re super uptight like that.
Cost: HKD15-42, depending on class, day and vessel.
Hong Kong Island taxis may by a bit reluctant to go all the way out to Lantau (where taxis are blue, incidentally) but it is possible by way of Tsing Ma suspension bridge. It’s not cheap, and not particularly quick either, so only go for this option if you favour comfort and privacy above all.
Cost: Approximately HKD300 Central-Mui Wo. Taxis, and all vehicles (save golf buggies) are not permitted in DB.
The Airport Express and the Tung Chung MTR line will take you to Tsing Yi or Tung Chung, respectively, from Central in about 30 minutes.
Cost: It costs HKD26 from Central to Tung Chung, where the Ngong Ping cable cars/buses (from HKD165 for adults) will take you to Lantau’s Big Buddha. The Airport Express costs at least HKD60.
What to do
Catch a glimpse of Hong Kong’s endangered pink dolphins, before the impending airport expansion and Macau Bridge construction presents the species with a resounding death knell. Hong Kong Dolphin Watch offers charter trips with a portion of the proceeds going to WWF. Local fishermen in Tai O may also host private tours if you ask them nicely, and negotiate a price.
Lantau’s undulating hills and untouched nature deliver a range of beautiful hikes for all skill levels. A particularly charming path runs from Mui Wo to Cheung Sha Beach, the latter often touted as one of Hong Kong’s most stunning shorelines.
The 13 kilometre route is clearly marked, but it can take a few ours given the hills. A dip and some sundowners at the Cheung Sha Beach finishing point make it all worthwhile though.
Also known the as Man Cheung Po infinity pools, these gems became quite the hotspot in 2014, attracting scores of hikers and media coverage. It should be noted that the attractions are man-made and managed by the Water Supplies Department – who confirmed to Coconuts HK that the pools are not open for public frolics, and that in the upcoming season security guards and a fence will be installed to protect and conserve the area. Boo!
However, gazing upon the pools is permitted. To do so, follow the Catchwater Road around the coast from Tai O, and turn left up a concrete path leading to Lung Tsai Ng Yuen. Ascend the hill for about an hour and, voila, you’re there.
Discovery Bay rock pools
Another popular option for rock-pool-partial parties is the naturally occurring bodies of water found on the road to the Discovery Bay Golf Club. To get there, simply walk up Discovery Valley Road until a bend and a bridge. Here, on the right just before the bridge, is a yellow sign.
It may not look like it, but this is the entrance and somewhat precarious path that leads down to the pools. These pools are open for public frolics.
The 34-metre bronze Tian Tan Buddha (or Big Buddha as it is known locally) sits atop a mountain next to Po Lin Monastery, and offers a serene escape for those tired of the urban hustle (although it’s nearly always packed with tourists).
It’s easily accessible via the Ngong Ping cable cars, which take about 25 minutes from Sunny Bay MTR station (see above) and deliver you to one of those surreal (in a bad way), recently built “traditional Chinese villages”.
Walk briskly through this, avoiding the life-size Ngong Ping monkey mascots and bubble machines, to arrive at the real deal: the monastery and Buddha.
Photo: Scott Creswell
Attractions include the Big Grizzly Mountain Runaway Mine Cars, Toy Story Land and, of course, the Disney classic “It’s a Small World”. Go on a weekday if possible to avoid crowds. One-day tickets cost HKD499 for adults.
Where to eat
Mavericks
Pui O Beach, (+852) 5402-4154
After suffering fire damage in December 2014, Mavericks is back and bigger than ever. Try the Big Kahuna Burger, which is piled high with house ground beef, brioche, basil mayo, greens, tomato and Manchego. There’s also a skateboard ramp outside – not recommended for the clumsy and/or beveraged.
The Stoep
32 Lower Cheung Sha Village (+852) 2980-2699
Featuring a combination of hearty South African and light Mediterranean fare, this Cheung Sha Beach eatery boasts a truly stellar location. It’s comfortable, reasonably priced and the perfect place to sip on some Sangria and watch the sunset roll in. It’s not a particular favourite with hardcore foodies, but a pleasure nonetheless. Reservations recommended for large groups on weekends.
Koh Tomyums
Shop 105B, 1/F, D’Deck, DB Plaza, Discovery Bay, (+852) 2987-0767
Often touted as serving up Hong Kong’s best Thai food, Koh Tomyums is packed to the rafters with DB locals most nights. Located on the first floor of the Plaza, the venue offers a number of patio seats overlooking the water. Try the high quality Massaman Gai curry or spicy Thom Yum Goong soup.
Where to stay
Tai O Heritage Hotel
Shek Tsai Po Street, Tai O, (+852) 2985-8383
This old community police station (now a Grade II listed building) was converted to a nine-bedroom boutique hotel in 2010. The colonial-style architecture and finely preserved historical elements – including cannons, a searchlight, corner turrets and cells (!) – make this a truly unique and charming encounter. Rooms will set you back about HKD2,500 a night.
Photo: Tai O Heritage Hotel
Auberge Discovery Bay
88 Siena Avenue, Discovery Bay, (+852) 2295-8288
This 325-room Worldhotels member opened in 2013, and is by far the largest hotel on the island. Popular with corporate groups, weddings and families, it offers world-class accommodation and everything you would expect along with it: a full buffet breakfast, large bathrooms and extremely plush bedding. Get an Ocean Front Panoramic View Room (the floor-to-ceiling expansive sea views are worth it). Prices range from HKD2,000 to HKD4,500.
Palm Beach
Palm Beach, Cheung Sha, (+852) 2980-4822
Palm Beach offers posh-ish teepees and safari tents on the waterfront that is its namesake – located within walking distance of Cheung Sha. There’s a number of activities on offer, such as surfing and kayaking, and the water is right on your doorstep. Rates range from HKD300 to HKD3,300.
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