COCONUTS CRITIC’S TABLE – There was a time when Nicholini’s in the Conrad Hotel represented the pinnacle of Italian cuisine in Hong Kong. Its opulent lacquered decor and high ceilings rivalled even Umberto Bombana’s old Ritz-Carlton ristorante Toscana for high-class styling and fine dining flavours.
But as Italian food grew in favour and acceptance, more chefs arrived and opened common place eateries in the 852. The buzz went to newer names, often serving more accessibly priced menus.
As time went on, Nicholini’s shine began to fade, and now it’s in danger of becoming a dinosaur, albeit a very luxurious one. Can they ever regain relevance in Hong Kong’s hyper-competitive scene?
Over the summer they brought in new executive chef Luca de Berardinis to do exactly that. Previously at the helm of Il Milione, you could say he has moved from one struggling, expensive trattoria to another.
An initial PR campaign generated some positive write-ups among easy-to-please bloggers, but the hard work now begins to re-establish Nicholini’s reputation for Northern Italian cuisine.
I confess I had not patronised Nic’s for several years until recently, when I was invited for a wine lunch.
The four-course fare was impressive in that it used simple ingredients in an interesting and creative way. Of particular note was the Parma Ham with Spinach Salad (HKD250), elevated with grilled Lorenzini melon and pumpkin seeds, giving it a sweet and smokey twist.
Even more enjoyable was a Duck Risotto (HKD350) flavoured with Raspadura cheese and a few blueberries providing bursts of contrasts.
The enticing experience encouraged me to return another night for dinner and confirm if the old institution still lives up to its glorious past.
Of the several hotels grouped around Admiralty, the Conrad is probably the most buttoned-up corporate. The eighth floor’s lounge bar, outside Nicholini’s, remains as conservative as ever.
As we entered the sparsely inhabited restaurant, I think I was the only male not in a suit and tie. Looking at a menu and the prices, I was reminded that this is a restaurant that caters for CEOs and executives.
A starter of slow-cooked Veal “Tonnato Style” with Marinated Mediterranean Tuna and Tuscan Ribollita Sauce alone was HKD280.
Veal with a rich tangy “Tonnato” (tuna) sauce is a popular Tuscan dish, but Nicholini’s doubles-down on the tuna with a layer of the fish underneath the veal slices, too. The savoury flavour was balanced with a few capers and pieces of mandarin, but I am not sure the tuna actually contributed much to the overall dish. The veal with the cream sauce was the star.
The Lentil Soup with Pan-fried Scallops (HKD250) was also an uneasy marriage of luxury ingredients and humble sustenance. The scallops, likely from Hokkaido, were fantastic with a perfect sear. The lentil soup had less flair, however, despite the chestnut foam and crunchy celery pieces on top.
Not everyone has the guts to offer Raviolo (ravioli is a plate of many pasta dumplings, raviolo is one large piece) especially when it’s prepared with a delicate egg yolk filling. Chef de Berardinis dared, so we had to go for it, even at a cool HKD350.
A raviolo should be a theatrical affair with the yolk oozing out as the pasta is cut. The first thing we noticed when it arrived was the weird placement of a broccoli spear on the top – which is like wearing a trucker hat with an Armani suit.
Then, as we knifed into the dish, the perfect yolk started to blend into the similarly coloured pool of aquila saffron sauce on the plate, which took away the drama somewhat. Undeniably, we enjoyed the taste, but the overall appreciation was slightly diminished by, well, kitschy plating.
The ambitious mains suffered a similar uneven result.
The Salted Cod Fish in a Polenta Crust (HKD550 – see header image) was overshadowed by its accompaniment, a Clam Soup layered with pieces of Lardo. The polenta crust didn’t really work as the textural crunch for the baccala. Instead, the salty clams and wild peas on the side proved far more interesting on the palate.
The “Gordon Rouge Style” Beef Fillet (HKD600) is a truly indulgent gastronomic exercise, stuffing the medallion of meat with foie gras and smothering it in black truffle sauce. How could it not be good? The fennel and capers on the plate were also covered with black truffle shavings.
Yet, the whole dish was not particularly memorable. Actually, it’s symptomatic of Nicholini’s struggle for traction. It mistakes dining excess for exciting culinary ideas. The result was overkill where a simpler and more generous serving of classic goodness (a bigger slice of the excellent beef) would have sufficed.
When I recall my earlier wine lunch, what stood out was the pumpkin seeds substituting pine nuts in the Spinach Parma Ham Salad, and as well as the naturally clean but rich flavour of duck in an unconventional risotto with plain blueberries.
These are simple tweaks, not elaborate re-inventions. In contrast, the dishes on my second visit seemed to be trying too hard.
For dessert, we shared a simple but very pleasant Carrot Sacher Cake with an Almond Sorbet and Whiskey Sabayon (HKD150). It wasn’t too sweet, and the bright flavours of the carrot shone through nicely against the rounded almond sorbet.
Nicholini’s is still a very good restaurant, but it’s missing a certain spark of excitement. For sophisticated epicurean diners, there are lots of other options with lower prices and chefs with brand name stature.
Another concern: for years, Nicholini’s signature dish was the carpaccio. Now it’s not even on the menu.
In my opinion, they need to either revamp the menu completely or enhance the history, tradition and nostalgia associated with the name. Right now, it’s a little too much of mish-mash of the old stuffy conservatism and new dishes that are interesting, but certainly not to-die-for.
Nicholini’s, 8/F Conrad Hong Kong, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty (+852) 2822-8801, hkghc_Nicholinis@conradhotels.com.
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