COCONUTS CRITIC’S TABLE – Shoreditch is one of London’s hippest districts. Now, it’s also a hip new gastropub in the similarly rising Hong Kong district, Kennedy Town, where trendy eateries have been popping up with regularity in recent years.
Located at the corner of Catchick and North Street, Shoreditch – which calls itself an Urban Eatery & Battlecruiser (in order to rhyme with boozer) – has an inviting industrial chic look reinforced by a full floor-to-ceiling window facade.
Inside, faux bricks and stained wood with graffiti art fulfil its urbane cool quotient. The message is “We’re casual but not down market”.
Actually, Shoreditch is too stylish and too posh to be considered an everyday pub. It’s probably more apt to describe it as a gastro-bar. The folks it will attract are more likely to order from the wine list than be seen downing pints of draught ale and beer.
But to play along with the charade, we opt for a glass of St. Mungo lager (HKD58) and a bottle of a local craft brew called Big Wave Bay (HKD58), which was bitter, wheaty and robust.
Big Wave Bay beer
The menu, likewise, attempts to dress up ordinary, classic pub fare with touches of refined produce or chef-y descriptions. For example, the Crab Cake comes with a lavender-coloured salsa with beetroots and Granny Smith apples, and the Hock Ham is styled into the couture form of a French fine dining terrine.
We start with a hearty bowl of Gaelic Cullen Skink with Fish and Seafood (HKD78), which is a showy way of saying seafood chowder. Thickened with potatoes for a creamy rich slurpiness, it also contained big chunks of seafood and fish and was both satisfying and flavourful.
Just as enjoyable was the Grilled Ox Tongue Salad (HKD118). More than just leafy goodness, the dish added extra British weight with finely chopped boiled egg and gherkin, along with generous slices of tender ox tongue hidden under a mound of greens. The portion was big enough to be a main entree on its own. The starters here definitely win with style and substance.
Less successful was the most classic of English fare, the fish and chips, which was re-titled as the St. Mungo Battered Cod (HKD188). The lager batter was nice and light, however, the sad state of the cod left something to be desired.
Instead of flaky and firm, the two fillets were almost as mushy as the ramekin of peas that came on the side. I needed to cover the whole thing in tartar sauce to make it more appetising. Considering the accompanying thick cut fries were nice and crispy, we chalked up the disappointing fish to a minor hiccup at the newly opened restaurant.
The Braised Ox Cheek (HKD198 – photo as header) was another well-sized dish, highlighted by a gravy intense with the flavour of red wine. The softened cheek still had a slight gelatinous bite to go with the shreds of cheek muscle, while baby carrots, half a courgette and some celeriac mash helped to mop up the delicious juices.
By now, we were completely stuffed, but the overly friendly server tempted us with the dessert menu and a complimentary digestif. Even though the Sticky Toffee was recommended, we tried the Apple and Blackberry Crumble (HKD98) which came with some vanilla custard cream, a couple of blackberries and a neatly cut strawberry rose.
Rhubarb might have been a better choice to pair with apple, but summer blackberries are in season and it gave the compote a different dimension – if you don’t mind the little seeds.
Shoreditch might be a tad too pricey to be a nightly neighbourhood pub, but we’re likely to be back for the comforting grub – if they make sure the fish is a bit fresher.
Shoreditch, Shop A, B and C, G/F, 18 Catchick Street, Kennedy Town, (852) 2242-3777.
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