COCONUTS CRITIC’S TABLE – In all honesty, overhyped and overpriced hipster dining establishments don’t just bore me, they almost always disappoint. It’s far more satisfying and fun to discover and be surprised by unique neighbourhood outlets serving real food for real value.
I first heard about Bistro Bon a few months ago as Chef Ricky Cheung’s new restaurant located in the unusual confines of the Baptist University campus in Kowloon Tong. Cheung is the highly regarded former executive chef of Scala in the Renaissance Harbour View Hotel, after which he started his own seafood and French eatery, Le Mieux Bistro.
Exterior
So, why would such an entity in the F&B field want to retreat to the dining hall of a college dorm? Is he so disillusioned by landlords, demanding customers and potential investors’ unsustainable business models? Or is the security of reasonable rent and subsidy from a large educational institution too tempting to pass up?
Whatever the reason, Cheung now reigns at the restaurant of the NTT International House, which provides accommodation for students and visitors to Baptist U. Bistro Bon even opens Monday to Saturday for breakfast.
Interior
The cuisine is described as “Mediterranean and Asian fusion delicacies” but the menu clearly caters more for student budgets and simpler tastes as opposed to luxury Michelin diners. Still, the offerings are quite appealing and quite a step above campus cafeteria grub.
The nondescript entrance next to a utility room qualifies Bistro Bon as a bonafide hideaway. Inside, the bright décor is not opulent but pleasant. The open kitchen and hanging potted flowers lend a suitably welcoming and humble vibe.
Caesar Salad with Roasted Chicken
The basic starter of Caesar Salad with Roasted Chicken (HKD98) was anything but basic. A nicely oozing soft-boiled egg swirled together with the kick-ass dressing packed with anchovy and Parmesan to give the salad a rounded dimension. It was quite heavenly and made with more care than posh Ceasar salads at many Central restaurants. They also didn’t scrimp on the chicken.
An even more haute offering in the Chef Recommendations was Spanish Gazpacho (see header photo), topped with some neatly arranged sushi-grade Japanese Amaebi shrimp and a Citrus Pesto (HKD107). The cold veggie soup was set more like a thick coulis, and the slightly bitter taste of capsicum peppers dominated, but it was refreshing paired with the sweet raw prawns. It’s a perfect summer appetiser.
Other dishes seemed less ambitious. The Slow Baked Spanish Iberico Pork Shoulder (HKD175) delivered six thick pieces of juicy pork prepared in minimalist fashion. It was perfectly satisfying but felt like Chef Cheung slumming far below his potential. Surely, he could have upped his game with a little sage or a tart apple contrast? Instead, the Iberico was served just with rather dull sides of broccoli, semi-dried tomato and some potato wedge fries. Ho-hum.
More appealing was the Papillote of Alaskan Turbot Fillet (HKD165). Looking around the place, it was clearly the most popular dish. Practically every table had a plastic-wrapped piece of steaming white fish.
Cheung’s reputation was made with seafood and it showed here at this upscale canteen as well. Delectably cooked with some basil, tomato and mushrooms, the turbot’s flaky textural sensation was matched by its incredibly fresh taste. It’s the kind of dish that leaves you wanting more, and we certainly wanted more of its juicy flesh with the sweet salsa. In addition to the seemingly standard broccoli, tomato and fries, it came with a seriously good dollop of ratatouille that had a nice spicy kick at the end of it.
There were considerate little touches with the service. Knowing we were sharing desserts, they served the items together on a single plate. Horlicks Panna Cotta with Crunchy Chocolate (HKD40) was a nostalgic hit for anyone who grew up enjoying the malted milk drink. The serving ladle with the Le Mieux embellishment was equally sentimental for anyone missing chef Cheung’s defunct Wan Chai eatery and Chai Wan private kitchen.
The French Opera Cake (HKD55) was a decadent chocolate overdose of creamy ganache and rich nutty cream.
For groups of six or more, Bistro Bon can also prepare a very enticing tasting menu with antipasto, pastas and signatures like Seared Seafood Mousseline and Crab Meat Fondue, Poached Pigeon with Yellow Wine Bouillon and Sichuan Pepper, and New Zealand Young Lamb Brisket Braised in Thai Spices for HKD500 per person. Since it’s a campus restaurant, they don’t have a booze license but there’s no corkage charge if you want to bring your own.
I’d say that alone is a pretty good reason to go back to school.
Bistro Bon, G/F, Dr. Ng Tor Tai International House, Baptist University, 32 Renfrew Road, Kowloon Tong, (+85) 2628-0330.
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